I am at a stopping point with the Oaf’s pirate coat–I need a little more velvet and something for the lining and more trim. I hope to God I can find all of that at Joann’s tonight.

But, I was up early this morning and wanted to get into my craft room so I dug out Mcalls 5759.Mccall's 5759

I have a beautiful piece of navy blue cashmere-wool melton that I’ve been wanting to use for something awesome. I decided on this pattern a long time ago and was only waiting to find the lining. And really, with cashmere rayon bemberg is not going to cut it. Some fancy brocade polyester stuff while wonderful for many things would just be an insult to this fabric.

Silk, of course, but not just any old silk will do. I was looking for a great color or print with a satiny weave–and it finally came in the mail last week. SilkLining3

I got it from Fabric Mart on sale, but I thought I saw it on the Mood website at some point too. The darkest color is a deep deep navy, just like the cashmere.

I don’t think I would wear this as a top or a dress, but as a lining it’s perfect.

Take another look at the pattern–I am making view C with the big collar.  Now, I’m not very tall. I’m not the shortest chick out there, but I’m 5’3″ (that’s about 160 cm for my metric friends) which lands me in the “petite” section.

According to many home ec teachers from the ’70’s and ’80’s, that collar is too big for little ole moi. Whatevs, ladies. Imma going to make it and wear it. Besides, what is big or  oversized? It’s all relative, is what it is!

Anyone can wear a nice large collar or a big print, and if the proportions are right it will look great whether you barely get on carnival rides or can tap the lintel in bare feet. And if the proportions are wrong, the wearer will look dumb, in my not-so-humble opinion.

I have to alter these commercial patterns anyway. I shorten the bodice by about an inch and the same with the sleeves and sleeve caps. So when I make the mock-up for this jacket–which I don’t always do but with cashmere and silk I am going to mock the shit out of that!–I will take into careful consideration where and how the collar falls on my neck and shoulders. I may have to adjust the stand part and I’m sure I will re-draw the outlines a little bit.

So I’ll be breaking a rule or two here, and if you are breaking any rules these days, we want to hear about it!